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| The City's New Old Pride |
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Published:
The Star / Weekend |
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Date:
November 22, 2004 |
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There are few places in Kuala Lumpur that can measure up to the character and style of the Asian Heritage Row, otherwise known as Jalan Doraisamy.
This strip in the heart of the city, off Jalan Sultan Ismail, is home to nine upmarket restaurants and bars, with more on the way. The row of two-storey houses here were built just before WWII and, until recently, were poorly maintained, some being used as warehouses. With loads of creativity (and plenty of investment), however, the outlet owners have transformed a rundown part of the city into a vibrant area.
Conservator Mr. Ng, of Asian Heritage Row Sdn Bhd, anchor tenant and the company that conceptualized the food & beverage ideas for the area, estimates that RM12mil has been spent so far (including for three more upcoming outlets).
"The Asian Heritage Row is part of a plan to create Heritage Village KL, a cluster of old houses converted into upmarket and hip F&B outlets," he reveals.
The outlets here are impressive, each with its own distinct character and theme, some even flamboyant. While some have opted to completely refurbish the interior, others have chosen to just do touch-up and repair work. Most, however, have retained the timber staircase and accompanying banister.
Zhivan Rajagopal, one of the owners of Kristao, says, "We basically restored the home to its original look - had to break a wall, too, and moved the roof up to its original height. We're proud of its simplicity. It's a lot more satisfying giving new life to an old character-filled place, than moving into a new shoplot."
Zhivan's sentiment is shared by Edhem Focho, owner of Saray Turkish Restaurant.
"We did some work on this place but retained as much as we possibly could. To me the architecture of the past if far better than today's. Where can you find floors made of cengal wood anymore these days? It's unaffordable!" he says.
"One reason we chose this spot is due to the large car park out back," says Zhivan, one of the earliest to move here. He does not believe that getting to a place for a meal should involve any stress, least of all finding parking space.
There are two large car parks - one beside the restaurant and another behind. The area will soon be kicking harder as more outlets open up by year-end. Among them: The Loft KL, Shanghai Bar & Restaurant and Java & Ginger Coffeehouse.
The following is a list of the current operators (excluding a foot reflexology outlet.) Pork is not served at any of these outlets.
 Bar Blonde
This is a trendy minimalist bar with a clean white look. The front area is spacious as the upper floor has been peeled back into a mezzanine. The long bar serves a variety of cocktails, but specializes in wine and champagne.
Upstairs, at the rear, there's a super-cool outdoor wooden deck with a little bar called the Skydeck. This ultra modern outlet with a dash of retro has popular R&B nights on Friday and Saturday, while the first of every Tuesday is Open Mic Night, where singers can come to jam. Happy hours: 4pm to 9pm.
Hours: 4pm to 1am ( Mon-Thu), 4pm to 3am (Fri & Sat), telephone (03) 2691 1088
CoChine & Bar Savanh
This is a "lounge-ish" outlet for food, drinks and partying. Like many outlets along the street, a lot of work and money has been put into turning the old residence into a stylish and cosy hang-out. The concept (and food) is Indochinese, while the décor and furnishings are a mix of ethnic styles.
There are a couple of opium beds scattered with cushions, and stools and sofas on the ground floor where Bar Savanh is . The dining area upstairs overlooks the indoor "courtyard". The menu is quite extensive with many Indochinese and Thai delights.
Savanh's a chill-out bar on weekdays, Boogie Woogie on Fridays (music from the 70s to 90s), followed by Saturday Groove with DJ G-Traxx who spins R&B (RM20 first drink charge).
Happy hours daily are from 5pm to 9pm, with 50% off beer, wine and premium house-pouring liquors. The bar will expand its cocktail list soon.
Hours: noon to 3pm (Mon-Fri), 6.30pm to 11pm daily, telephone (03) 2697 1180
Kristao
This pioneering outlet was the first restaurant-bar on the street and specializes in Malaccan Portuguese cuisine. It's a very homey two-floor establishment, with a full bar in front especially welcoming with its sofa section for pre-dinner drinks.
Kristao also has the honour of having the longest happy hours around - from 11am to 10pm daily, with beer and house pouring at RM9.20 nett and a carafe of liquor-mix for RM57.50.
 The drinks and wine list is extensive, and includes wines from Portugal, something not commonly found in these parts.
The chef is Malaccan-Portuguese and his specialties are Debal Curry, Baked Fish and Portuguese Fried Rice. Prices are reasonable and the menu is changed every few months. They give suggestions on how to match their food with wines. The kitchen is open all night. There's a good supper menu and their breakfast is no slacker either.
There are 72 seats inside and 28 outside. Salsa classes are conducted upstairs on Wednesday and Thursday.
Hours: 7.30am to 1am (Mon-Fri), 9am to 1am (Sat), Telephone (03) 2691 8768
Saray Turkish Restaurant
This restaurant opened here about 18 months ago. It serves authentic Ottoman cuisine, the more traditional form of Turkish food which is more gravy-based. Food is reasonably priced. Among the specialties here are Lahmacun (Turkish pizza), Hunkar Begendi (beef stew), Kalamarli Kuskus (squid with couscous), Karisik Izgara (mix grill), Tavuk Shish (skewered chicken in special marinade) and, of course, kebabs.
Saray bakes its own bread in a wood-fired oven. All decors, cutlery, plates and cups were brought from Turkey. It doesn't serve alcohol.
Hours: noon to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm (Mon-Fri), 6pm-11pm (Sat&Sun), Telephone (03) 2694 9724
Senja Bistro
Originally located in KLCC, this outlet serves typical Malay food and opens till late. Specialties include Otak-otak, Rendang Tok, Nasi Tomato, Sambal Kerang, Lontong and Nasi Briyani Gam. Food is served a la carte but there's buffet too (lunch at RM14.85 nett). It serves typical Malaysian breakfasts.
The bedrooms have been turned into dining rooms. A dining hall upstairs has kampong-styled stained windows.
Hours: 10.30am to 2am daily, telephone (03) 2693 1918
That Indian thing
One of the most striking and cool joints on the street, That Indian thing is a beautifully-designed fusion outlet with few tables and lots of style.
The extensive use of glass and mirrors gives the restaurant a snazzy club-like atmosphere. The menu is interesting - Italian, Spanish and Malaysian food using Indian cooking as its base.
This two-storey outlet is very contemporary, and there's an attractive bar upstairs that's made striking with a creative play of lights.
An elevated area provides the stage for bands or functions. There's also a full bar downstairs and an extensive wine list.
The happy hour and dining crowd can relax on the timber deck outside or at the sculptured steel bar. Beers are one-for-one from 4pm to 9pm daily.
Hours: 11am to 1am daily, Telephone (03) 2698 6357
The Ivy
A traditional English bar with a menu of fine pub food, including classics like Yorkshire pudding, steak & mushrooms pie, roast beef, and fish & chips, among others. The lower level is the drinking and partying area.
Later in the night the music picks up a couple of paces and the disco lights come on, even though there's no dancefloor. The music includes everything - retro, R&B, funk, house and requests.
Décor is very British and quite conservative, with some antique-styled chairs in the mix. There are a few high marble tables near the bar where you may dine as well. Upstairs there's a cosy little bar and elegant lounge for dining and cigar puffing, plus an attractive rear deck by a monstrous tree.
Ivy gets a decent expat and lunch crowd. It also offers the option of dining outdoors. The two-course set lunch costs RM28.75 nett.
Hours: 11am to 12.30am (and beyond) daily. Telephone (03) 2693 2260
The Vanilla Box
The first outlet on the block, this is a little bakery café that does breakfast sets, besides cakes and pastries. It also serves meals, including Italians pizzas, lasagna and salads. Specials include brownies and chocolate cake, for which Belgian chocolate is used. Soon Christmas cookies will be sold.
Hours: 8am to 10pm (Mon-Fri), 9.30am to 10pm (Sat), Telephone (03) 2691 6007
The Wine Room
A cosy, trendy lounge that has a DJ playing house every Friday and Saturday. There are lots of high-end wines as well as champagnes. You'll also find Skyy Vodka, a whole range of single malt whiskys, gin- and vodka-based cocktails and cigars.
The lighting is soft and conducive for a relaxed night out, aided by the cushy sofas and armchairs and many cushions. There are no happy hours. For street-watching, there's a two-tiered outer deck nestled amidst a neighbouring tree's canopy. Super cool.
Hours: 5pm to 12am (Mon-Thu), 5pm to 2am (Fri & Sat), Telephone (03) 2691 8672
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